rocking a flannel butterfly fitted

rocking a flannel butterfly fitted
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts

Saturday, 15 August 2015

Monster Bunz Mod to Soaker Tutorial

It's no secret I think monster bunz aka MB (by opulent monsters on etsy) is the greatest fit for a cloth bum.  So today I am going to show how I use this pattern to make a soaker.  I should add I have the luxe fit.
(Toddlers are not always the best models lol, this is the only still shot I managed to get).

K first up pin your leg pattern price to your wool.
Cut from 1/2 inch below small circle cut out to 1/2 inch below large circle cut out (I sew in a 1/4 inch seam allowance - quilting habit).

Next fold the pattern peice up at this 1/2 inch mark
Cut across straight edge.

Cut your waist as normal or make it shorter.  I like shorter on a soaker.

Finally cut your leg peice in the opposite stretch direction and not on fold. (Mine was pre cut so I eyeballed it).  We want the leg cuff more narrow height wise, but longer length wise as it now is going around a thigh not an ankle.

Finally sew together in much the same way.
Sew edge of cuffs then fold over and set aside.

Repeat for waist.

Sew top back seam.

Top front seam

Join leg seams forming a leg hole.
Next (and I'm so sorry I forgot a pic) cut from 1.5 inch in from the leg seam out towards the side on a scoop up by 2 inches.  This will make it a soaker and not a shorty.  Now that it is on him, and he is thinned out, I could have cut up 3-4 inches.

Place butt circle in hole.  Pin top and bottom first then ease in pinning more.  Sew (circle up).


Inside out place cuffs and waist band in leg holes and waist.  Then sew.


Lastly I fold the cuff over once more and sew up.



Thursday, 23 April 2015

Swim Diaper TutorialTutorial - with hack for using mesh.


Swim diapers are fantastic.  Back when my oldest was little (19 years ago), you had to have your swim diaper inspected and some pools were uncertain about them.  Time has proven the cloth swim diaper though and now some pools are banning the disposable swim diapers (cuz of the weird stuff they leak) in preference for cloth swim diapers.

My first swim diaper was pul lined in one layer flannel with a Velcro strip.  Now they are lined in athletic wicking mesh.  Much lighter when wet.

To make today's swim diaper we used the Aquarius swimmer pattern from sewmamasew.  (This was a project at the metis centre today).  You can use any swim pattern you like though.  (Note these fit smaller then a cover as they are not going over a diaper).  That link takes you to the tutorial, but I've made a small change.

You will need:
Pul
Athletic wicking mesh/jersey
Universal thread
Foe (fold over elastic)
Ball point needle
Snaps and snap press (or velcro)

So start by tracing your pattern onto your PUL on the back side.  Use a bright marker.  I used blue, wish I'd used red.

Now lay your mesh over top of pul (on back side) **no cutting has happened yet!

Pin like crazy.  Normaly you don't pin pul but swim diapers sole function is holding in poop, so its ok to pin.  I pinned inside and outside the diaper outline.

Next straight stitch the two fabrics together about 1/8th- 2/8th inside the outline.  Now you can cut out the diaper.  This way that stretchy mesh hasnt gone wonky while cutting and is the exact same size as the pul.  Awesome right?  It's also going to make adding the foe easier :)
         (This has 2 traced and pinned)
 Next place your fold over elastic (folded over) on edge of diaper (leaving a tail.  The tail is for finishing).   Your going to sew this down with a narrow width zigzag (at edge of foe).  You do this just like bias tape.  Your pattern has areas where you don't need elastic so dont stretch the foe.  And areas that do need elastic stretch (legs, back & front waist) so do stretch foe (to the fullest) in these area .

Sewing foe un stretched around tab
(Pin marking elastic)
Sewing foe fully stretched through legs and waist.

Since this is for a swim diaper I marked the elastic placement with pins, points sticking towards foe.  This way when I folded the foe over the edge of the fabric the needles stuck through and were not in my way.

Now when you have only and inch- inch and a half left tie off your thread (back stitch).

Then measure to see how much foe is needed to finish.
Pin together the foe (right sides together) using the tail you left at the start.  Straight stitch them and clip close to seam.  Now fold back over edge of diaper and finish sewing (zigzag stitch).

Now add the snaps.   

And your done.  

Sunday, 22 February 2015

Wool Soaker Cover Tutorial with finished (comfort) seams.

This tutorial is for a wool soaker style cover.  It can also be made in water resistant fleece.  In this tutorial I'll be using felted wool interlock.

Often we make these with regular seams.  This is perfectly fine as baby won't feel the seams as the cover goes over the diaper.  However if your plan is to sell wool covers now or in the future you should make a more professional seam in keeping with the expectations of a paying costumer.

The Tutorial

First we will sew a soaker layer in the wet zone for added protection.  You can sew with a zigzag stitch.  If your machine has this diamond stitch use it instead as its an even better stitch.  Sew around the edge of the soaker pad.

Next pin your cuff right sides together, stretching to fit the leg hole.  Pin ends first, then middle.  Straight stitch near the edge

Fold the cuff over and turning a  hem under pin the other end of the cuff to the inside of the soaker.  Push your first seam open as you pin this hem.  Sew with a straight stitch as close to the edge as you can.  Repeat with other leg hole and cuff.

Now we will sew one side closed (just one).  We will be doing this as a French seam.  Pin the one side wrong sides together (so right way out).  Zigzag setitzh right on the edge.  Because felted wool and fleece is thick, the zig zag will cut down some if this thickness.

Nowturn the soaker inside out, pin the seam and sew again but with a straight stitch.  Make sure your sewing outside that first seam so the raw edges are enclosed within the seam.

Now you'll notice its smooth but sticks out.  Stitch that seam down.

Next we will attach the waist band just as we did the leg cuffs.
•sew right sides together
•fold waistband over, turn a hem and straight stitch.

Now we repeat the French seam in the side.
•zigzag edge wrong aides together
Turn inside out, pin and stitch
•fold seam over and stitch down.

And your done!

drafting your own wool soaker cover with a diaper cut as a guide.


You can draft your own wool (or fleece)  soaker pattern using a diaper cut or pattern piece as a guide.



Here I have a boxboard soaker pattern laid over a diaper cut (newspaper) pattern .  you can use a pattern piece from a pocket, fitted, HF or cover.
Notice they are the same length.  Crotch width is also the same.  The leg curve at the back (up to the middle) is also the same.  Trace your back half of your diaper cut but cut off the wings.
The front of my soaker exactly matches my back.  Fold you pattern material in half and cut as one.

 And there it is.  Now if you'd like a soaked piece in your wet zone cut an oval that is more narrow then your crotch width by 2 inches (approx).  The length needs to be several inched shorter then the cover.  How much is personal choice.  I used white here so you can see it.
You likely want a leg cuff of about an inch or so.  Cut your cuff double your desired cuff height plus seam allowence.  This is cuz the cuff will be folded in half.
Cut your cuff length so that it fits the leg hole when cuff is stretched but soaker is not.  It will be a bit shorter then the leg hole.  It is best to measute this way as opposed to a specific length since each fabric will have a different stretch.  
Cut second cuff to match. 
* If your child has slender thighs stretch the cuff fabric tight.  If your child has thunder thighs, stretch it just a little . 
Your waist piece will also be twice your disered height plus seam allowence.  You likely want it at with a finished height of about 3 inches.  Stretch waist fabric length ways across the back of the soaker.  Mark this.  Since the front and back are the same double the amount plus seam allowence.  Like the cuff its best to decide in this manor rather then a pre set amount.  
And there you go.  I'll add a tutorial  . Sewing as soon as I have a chance to sew this lol.  

Friday, 20 February 2015

back snapping wool romper with butt circle (tutorial)

This is a tuturial on how to sew this romper (which I just love).  To make the pattern click here.

On to sewing.  I made this in wool interlock so it also doubles as a diaper cover.  But this pattern will work in any knit.

If you followed the other tutorial you now have all your pieces cut.  Next clean your bobbin run and needle plate.  Change your needle and thread your machine.

I like to get the little things taken care of first.  So fold your sleeve cuff over lengthwise and place on right side of sleeve.  Sew.  Open seam up and top stitch.  Repeat on other sleeve.

Take leg cuff, right sides together sew down length.  Trim seam allowance.  Fold over so seams are in inside.


Next we will add the yokes to the necklines.  This is how you get a proper neckline.  Put right aides together.  Line up and pin neckline of front piece to front yoke.  Sew neckline.  Trim seam allowence.  Flip yoke over and pin.  Top stitch.  Repeat with back shirt piece and back yoke.
Hem bottom of back shirt piece and back pant piece.  I used a double line of stitching.  If making out if non-wool knit use a straight stitch and a zig zag or diamond stitch at raw edge.

Now we will place back pant piece right sides together over front leg area.  Pin the inside seams of the legs.  Sew each inside leg seam.
Open pants up. Top. Stitch inside leg seam.

Open pant section (wrong side up).  You will have a circular hole.  Place butt circle (wrong side up) in hole.  Because this one is wool, I am using two circle pieces for added wet zone protection.  Pin the center of the circle at top and bottom, then at leg seams. My pins are on the green side.
Now add the rest of your pins working from current pins inwards.  This helps to fit in even without stretching any area to make it fit.  Next sew your circle and trim seam allowance.
Now lay your back top piece (right sides together) over top of your front piece and pin and sew shoulders.
Lay outfit flat open with shoulder seams facing you wrong side up.  Lay sleeve into arm hole also wrong side up.  Pin sleeve to arm hole.  Pin edges, then center then fill pins in like we did with the butt circle.  Sew and trim seam allowance.  Repeat with second sleeve.
Lay outfit altogether right sides in.  Pin outside edges from sleeve cuff down.  Then bottom of leg up.  When you get to where the bottom of back shirt meets bottom of back pant pin the pant hem over the shirt hem.  Repeat on other side.  Your out fit is all one piece now except for leg cuffs.
With outfit still inside out place leg cuff inside of leg, matching up all the raw edges.  Line up seams.  Pin seam, then across from seam.  Add more pins if needed.  I used 4.  Sew cuff to pants and trim seam allowance.  
Turn outfit out and you are almost done.  Just add two snaps or buttons to the opening at the back.  

Now first time I put an outfit like this on my oldest I was lost.  Sit baby in your lap.  Put head through neck.  Put arms in.  Pull down and put legs in, pull over bum.  Do up snaps or buttons.  When baby can crawl or walk away this is a fast outfit to get on them.  It is also quick for diaper changes.