rocking a flannel butterfly fitted

rocking a flannel butterfly fitted

Saturday 28 February 2015

Vinegar: cleaning hero

Vinegar is a great cleaner around the house and in your laundry.  Vinegar breaks down urine and works as a cloth diaper safe fabric softener. 

You can soak cloth diapers in vinegar and water prior to laundry. 

You can add it to your wash machine

Or you can soak your cloth diapers in vinegar and water after washing.  *this method I recommend if you are hand washing because vinegar also breaks down detergent. 

Its that simple, make life easier,  ward off ammonia with this ammonia fighter. 

Its also good for cleaning kitten accidents and litter pans. 

Thursday 26 February 2015

Minky, Velour & Sherpa - absorbers with stay dry effects

The use of these fabrics can be confusing.  They are absorbing fabrics, but they are generally used for their stay dry effect.  They are not stay dry in the same way as suede cloth or microfleece.  But they do have a stay dry effect, and that effect preforms well enough that they are worth using as a staydry layer. 

Sherpa is alone in this group as it is a super absorber.  4 layers would give you a soaker that both absorbs and has stay dry effect.  Its stay dry effect is very different then the others as its the pilling from washing that leaves the top feeling dry.  Also its 100% cotton.  

Minky on the other hand is 100% poly.  It absorbs about the same as flannel but some minky's are lofty and so it would be way to thick as an absorbent set of layers.  Also being 100% poly having many layers of Minky would be a laundry nightmare.  Then there is cost, it would be a pricy choice.  However as a super soft topper or lining with stay dry effect it will be a fabric you fall in love with. 

Velour (cotton,  hemp, bamboo-rayon).  These generally have a poly backing to add durability.  Without it these fabrics will not last.  So what you have is a fabric that would absorb well but the poly backing interferes with that making it not the best absorber but it does have a stay dry effect and is nice and soft.  The pile of this fabric is why it preforms the way it does.  This is why we see it as a topper or lining inside a diaper. 

So there you have it, sometimes a fabric breaks the rules, understanding this can help with your fabric choices. 

Make Your Own Diaper Pattern - Tutorial

So this tutorial is to help you draft your own diaper pattern and soaker.  My goal is to help you navigate between all the small changes from one pattern to the next in shape and size.  Choosing what will likely be best for you.

I recommend making a single layer cut in any diaper fabric to test out your fit without making an entire diaper.  You'll see the pattern samples I used are cut in flannel.

I suggest starting with newspaper, then something like flannel.  Quickly sew some elastic on (like I did in some of these samples) and test fit with a distowel or similar sized fabric (for bulk).  Then you'll know if / where to make an adjustment.

First up is diaper sizes.  There is a wide range and the chart below should help you with a guide to the deminsions you want to work with.  If you draw max and min measurements in marker and draft your pattern in another marker colour this will help.
Also draft just half.  Them fold in half length ways to cut both sides the same.
(Max & Min dimensions drawn in pink, half diaper cut drawn in blue)

Size.     Length.    Crotch    Back.    Front.
Nb.        14 - 15     4.5-7       12-1 .      8-10
Sm.       16-18.       4.5-7.5   14-15.5   9-11
Med      17-20.      5- 8.        15-18.     9-12
Lg/os    18-21.       6-8.         18-20.5  9-12.5

* measurements in inches, before sewing
** 5 & 7 are the most common crotch width sizes.

So now that you see how to draw the pattern, and within what measurements, how do you decide what shape to draw?  Well obviously you want all around bigger for a chunky baby, and smaller for a skinny baby, but there is a bit more to it then that of course.

Leg shape:  some leg holes have a gentle curve. Others are more scooped.  A gentle leg curve fits a thunder thigh best.  A more scooped leg curve fits slender legs best.  Somwhere in between is your average.  The gentle curve will increase crotch width (best for chunky).  All newborns have little legs, so if making a newborn diaper or cover, use a scooped leg. 
The leg hole is going to shrink when you add elastic. Shrinkage equals X1.5

Wing to leg ratio also effects leg elastic.  The longer the crotch,  the higher it comes around the leg.  Wing shape; looking above you see the square tab on the left with gentle leg curve only has elastic on bottom of leg. This is because it has a shorter crotch, deeper wing. 
So if baby has no booty or long butt crack you want a deeper wing that comes up higher on the waist.   Think of it like high waisted jeans and a more narrow wing is like low rise jeans.  Skinny baby with no butt?  Long scooped leg with deep wing.  

How wide is the back?  Measure your baby's back.  Multiple by 1.5 (elastic with shrink up the width) . Wings are added width to this measurement.  Generally you want enough wing to come around baby's side and to the front.  Keep this in mind when deciding wing length.  

Alternatively a side snap diaper required very short wings. Measure your baby's sides, this is your wing size + seam allowance + overlap for snaps (1, 2 or 3 rows across).  Also you snaps will run vertically down the wing.  Having multiple rows allows you to snap the top or bottom tighter if needed.  
Next is tummy panel.  You might wish this to be just a little wider then the crotch, or wrap around the sides of babies tummy.  This is pretty much personal choice.  Just make sure your wings cover and and do up well.  With a side snap your tummy panel will match the back wings.  Shape wise you want it to visually go with the look if the wings, not so much for appearenc, but for a corresponding fit.  Do you have a tummy sleeper, or slender waist?  Add some width to accommodate some tummy elastic.  

Making a contour mini?  Design the same but round off instead of wings.
This mini is finished put you can see it is a diaper with no wings at all.  Make the tummy and butt wider then the crotch though to cover butt and front.

Butterfly fitted?  Take your diaper design and draw a wing on each side in the leg hole area.

These wings fold over and become your soakers (so need to add one).  And once folded in you have your diaper shape.


Now you'll need to add soakers for absorbency (except the butterfly's that's what the wings do).   You will want at least 2 diaper cuts.  Then perhaps a soaker pad sewn in and soaker that lays on top,   snaps on is is sewn to one end like a flap.

A sewn in soaker pad will be oval or conoured.  It will be about 1.5 inches more narrow then your crotch,  and a few inches shorter.

For an additional soaked you could do
 1 oval.. This could be srwn in  soaker pad and snap in or flap.

2 ovals for easier separation when drying and cleaning.  These would be snap in or flap.

It could be contured to give full coverage.  This can be soaker pad or snap in /flap
Where to place your elastic.  At the back leg curve place it where the curve starts on the wing.

Or a very long oval that folds over to double up absorbency.  This sryle soajer is dnap in ir flap.

Elastic placement:  see the red lines on the pic below.  This is elastic placement.  The back elastic lines up with the back leg elastic.  The front leg Marj is where the leg curve ends in front and the diaper turns vertically to the wing.  If adding front elastic, just center it, and never wider then the crotch.  


There you go!  You've just designed your very own diaper pattern!  No need to pay for one ever again cuz you have the skills! Practice, play around with it and have fun.  You can use this in any if the diaper tutorials on my page or any other tutorials.  

And notice to the right where the tutorials and reference pages are?  Well those will help with fabric choice etc but also check out the new "Let's talk" section".  

Sunday 22 February 2015

Wool Soaker Cover Tutorial with finished (comfort) seams.

This tutorial is for a wool soaker style cover.  It can also be made in water resistant fleece.  In this tutorial I'll be using felted wool interlock.

Often we make these with regular seams.  This is perfectly fine as baby won't feel the seams as the cover goes over the diaper.  However if your plan is to sell wool covers now or in the future you should make a more professional seam in keeping with the expectations of a paying costumer.

The Tutorial

First we will sew a soaker layer in the wet zone for added protection.  You can sew with a zigzag stitch.  If your machine has this diamond stitch use it instead as its an even better stitch.  Sew around the edge of the soaker pad.

Next pin your cuff right sides together, stretching to fit the leg hole.  Pin ends first, then middle.  Straight stitch near the edge

Fold the cuff over and turning a  hem under pin the other end of the cuff to the inside of the soaker.  Push your first seam open as you pin this hem.  Sew with a straight stitch as close to the edge as you can.  Repeat with other leg hole and cuff.

Now we will sew one side closed (just one).  We will be doing this as a French seam.  Pin the one side wrong sides together (so right way out).  Zigzag setitzh right on the edge.  Because felted wool and fleece is thick, the zig zag will cut down some if this thickness.

Nowturn the soaker inside out, pin the seam and sew again but with a straight stitch.  Make sure your sewing outside that first seam so the raw edges are enclosed within the seam.

Now you'll notice its smooth but sticks out.  Stitch that seam down.

Next we will attach the waist band just as we did the leg cuffs.
•sew right sides together
•fold waistband over, turn a hem and straight stitch.

Now we repeat the French seam in the side.
•zigzag edge wrong aides together
Turn inside out, pin and stitch
•fold seam over and stitch down.

And your done!

drafting your own wool soaker cover with a diaper cut as a guide.


You can draft your own wool (or fleece)  soaker pattern using a diaper cut or pattern piece as a guide.



Here I have a boxboard soaker pattern laid over a diaper cut (newspaper) pattern .  you can use a pattern piece from a pocket, fitted, HF or cover.
Notice they are the same length.  Crotch width is also the same.  The leg curve at the back (up to the middle) is also the same.  Trace your back half of your diaper cut but cut off the wings.
The front of my soaker exactly matches my back.  Fold you pattern material in half and cut as one.

 And there it is.  Now if you'd like a soaked piece in your wet zone cut an oval that is more narrow then your crotch width by 2 inches (approx).  The length needs to be several inched shorter then the cover.  How much is personal choice.  I used white here so you can see it.
You likely want a leg cuff of about an inch or so.  Cut your cuff double your desired cuff height plus seam allowence.  This is cuz the cuff will be folded in half.
Cut your cuff length so that it fits the leg hole when cuff is stretched but soaker is not.  It will be a bit shorter then the leg hole.  It is best to measute this way as opposed to a specific length since each fabric will have a different stretch.  
Cut second cuff to match. 
* If your child has slender thighs stretch the cuff fabric tight.  If your child has thunder thighs, stretch it just a little . 
Your waist piece will also be twice your disered height plus seam allowence.  You likely want it at with a finished height of about 3 inches.  Stretch waist fabric length ways across the back of the soaker.  Mark this.  Since the front and back are the same double the amount plus seam allowence.  Like the cuff its best to decide in this manor rather then a pre set amount.  
And there you go.  I'll add a tutorial  . Sewing as soon as I have a chance to sew this lol.  

Saturday 21 February 2015

Fabric Order Is Placed (edit)


Fabric orders are placed and paid for.  I ended up making two as I had a bit of good fortune that allowed me more flexibility in what I ordered.  I was going to order Friday but was having trouble deciding.  That turned out to be a good thing.

I ordered more of the chocolate brown fleece from Simplifi of course.  I also order two knits to make Monkey an outfit.    The fleece will be used both in butterfly's for monkey, and either Fitted's or Mini's.

I also placed an order with natures fabrics.  I ordered that hot blue poor boy wool knit I've been eyeing.  I also ordered some interlock.  The interlock has been felted and has fold lines that won't wash out.  So it's on sale.  I'm going to layer it with the wool knit.  I was going to do a wool pocket experiment but phase one failed (disliked the performance of the athletic Jersey), so I'll make wio's or shorties or both, who knows

Also from Nature's I got a brown cotton fleece with airplane print.  It will be paired with the hemp fleece for butterfly's.

The wool I was going to use for the pockets was a no go.  None of the pieces were wide enough to get wings.  So I made the romper and I have some soakers on the sewing pile.  So the donated items are tried tested true soaker covers.  The initial experimenting is up to me.   (Edit: experiment phase one failed... That's how it goes sometimes).

Friday 20 February 2015

back snapping wool romper with butt circle (tutorial)

This is a tuturial on how to sew this romper (which I just love).  To make the pattern click here.

On to sewing.  I made this in wool interlock so it also doubles as a diaper cover.  But this pattern will work in any knit.

If you followed the other tutorial you now have all your pieces cut.  Next clean your bobbin run and needle plate.  Change your needle and thread your machine.

I like to get the little things taken care of first.  So fold your sleeve cuff over lengthwise and place on right side of sleeve.  Sew.  Open seam up and top stitch.  Repeat on other sleeve.

Take leg cuff, right sides together sew down length.  Trim seam allowance.  Fold over so seams are in inside.


Next we will add the yokes to the necklines.  This is how you get a proper neckline.  Put right aides together.  Line up and pin neckline of front piece to front yoke.  Sew neckline.  Trim seam allowence.  Flip yoke over and pin.  Top stitch.  Repeat with back shirt piece and back yoke.
Hem bottom of back shirt piece and back pant piece.  I used a double line of stitching.  If making out if non-wool knit use a straight stitch and a zig zag or diamond stitch at raw edge.

Now we will place back pant piece right sides together over front leg area.  Pin the inside seams of the legs.  Sew each inside leg seam.
Open pants up. Top. Stitch inside leg seam.

Open pant section (wrong side up).  You will have a circular hole.  Place butt circle (wrong side up) in hole.  Because this one is wool, I am using two circle pieces for added wet zone protection.  Pin the center of the circle at top and bottom, then at leg seams. My pins are on the green side.
Now add the rest of your pins working from current pins inwards.  This helps to fit in even without stretching any area to make it fit.  Next sew your circle and trim seam allowance.
Now lay your back top piece (right sides together) over top of your front piece and pin and sew shoulders.
Lay outfit flat open with shoulder seams facing you wrong side up.  Lay sleeve into arm hole also wrong side up.  Pin sleeve to arm hole.  Pin edges, then center then fill pins in like we did with the butt circle.  Sew and trim seam allowance.  Repeat with second sleeve.
Lay outfit altogether right sides in.  Pin outside edges from sleeve cuff down.  Then bottom of leg up.  When you get to where the bottom of back shirt meets bottom of back pant pin the pant hem over the shirt hem.  Repeat on other side.  Your out fit is all one piece now except for leg cuffs.
With outfit still inside out place leg cuff inside of leg, matching up all the raw edges.  Line up seams.  Pin seam, then across from seam.  Add more pins if needed.  I used 4.  Sew cuff to pants and trim seam allowance.  
Turn outfit out and you are almost done.  Just add two snaps or buttons to the opening at the back.  

Now first time I put an outfit like this on my oldest I was lost.  Sit baby in your lap.  Put head through neck.  Put arms in.  Pull down and put legs in, pull over bum.  Do up snaps or buttons.  When baby can crawl or walk away this is a fast outfit to get on them.  It is also quick for diaper changes.  

Thursday 19 February 2015

pattern conversion: monster bunz to back snap wool romper

This post is the pattern conversion only.  The sewing tutorial is (here).

I love butt circle pants and I love wool.  Combining the two has been awesome.  Tonight however I was thinking I'd like a one piece old style romper that snaps shut at the back waist .  Trust me, they are awesome .  So I am combining the two.

I start with the purchased pattern.  The seams are in the wrong place for what we are doing thoug . We need side seams not centre seams.  So fold in half and tuck under pieces that form front of pants.

Lay on your new pattern paper (I use newspaper), with the waist on the fold.  Trace the pattern adding seam allowance to the outside of legs.  Also add a substantial hem allowance at waist. I fold my paper to get even on both sides when I cut. Then cut.

Now fold purchased pattern tucking back under.  Trace again with seam allowance at leg.  Leave lots of room at top of paper.

Grab one of baby's shirts.  Trace to make a pattern piece for shirt back.  Swing out side to match pant width.

Use that to make front shirt pattern piece (cut front neck lower though).  But make shorter shirt length then back and draft so the waists meet making one solid front piece.

Using shirt neck lines draft a front and back yoke.

Make a sleeve and cuff piece using your shirt and seam allowanc .

Use the butt circle and leg cuff pattern piece from your purchased pattern.

Pin pattern pieces to fabric. Make sure the stretch goes across the width of the pattern.  You will cut one piece of:
Pants back
Outfit front
Shirt back
Front & back yoke.

Cut two pieces of:
Sleeve
Sleeve cuff
Leg cuff
Butt circle.  (If made of jersey or fleece cut one, for wool cut 2 for water resistence.